The Great (Used) Gold Rush of 2009 - Part 2

The Great (Used) Gold Rush of 2009 - Part 2:

Beware the Buyer's Market

In jewelry, it's all about the rocks. "The bigger the glitter, the better the value," says Harry Rinker, a nationally syndicated antiques columnist and author of Sell, Keep, or Toss?

At a time when many former jewelry buyers suddenly hope to sell off heirlooms to pay the mortgage, it's important to remember that the bling that best retains value comes from such well-known jewelers as Cartier, Verdura, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron. "Although these pieces are manufactured with gold, diamonds, and other precious gems, it's really the design that moves them beyond what the product is made of," says Karen Keane, of Boston-based auction house Skinner.

While gold pieces are more valuable than they were a year ago, the weak economy has cut the price of precious gems, making this a buyer's market. The price of diamonds, for example, has fallen slightly for the first time in many years, says Paul Pastor, president of Washington-area jeweler Chas Schwartz & Son. He says a high-quality 3-carat diamond that could sell for $210,000 in October 2008 now fetches $185,000. "It's a buyer's market," he says, noting his estate-purchasing business is up 25% in the last year.

Because the market has been flooded with watch collections, those prices have dropped, too. At two major recent watch auctions in New York, at least 500 items went unsold. A late-model Patek Philippe World Time that sold for $38,000 last fall is now available for $29,500, Pastor says. And there is little demand for old standard wristwatches such as models from Hamilton and Bulova -- or old pocket watches, which are considered fuddy-duddy, experts say.

Antiques expert Rinker says jewelry from the Victorian and Art Deco eras draw the most attention, while interest has waned for pieces from the 1950s and '60s. "That bubble has burst a bit," he says.

If you're looking to sell Grandma's ruby ring or just want to know what your stuff is worth, read on.

1. Ruby, Sapphire, and Emerald Baubles

Depending on how attractive the piece is, it may really be worth its weight in gold. While rubies, sapphires, and emeralds have value, there are also many industrial-quality gems that do not hold any extra value above the metal. If the piece is attractive and resalable -- or made by a well-known designer such as Van Cleef & Arpels -- it will bring more than just its scrap weight.

2. 1-Carat Diamond Ring Tiffany Setting

Of course, what you can expect to be paid will always depend on the diamond, but for an average near-colorless and slightly imperfect stone, expect close to $1,000 or more.

3. Gold Bangle Bracelet

This will depend on the weight, but the yellow gold bangle you wore in the 1970s that really isn't in fashion should yield at least $250.

4. Diamond Studs

The value depends on the size and quality of the diamonds. While the seller should never expect what the studs cost at retail, a 2-carat pair of diamond studs should resell for around $3,000.

5. Rolex Submariner

These popular Rolexes typically fetch $2,500 to $3,000.

6. Grandma's Pearls

Pearls are abundant on the secondhand market and are always difficult to resell. Mikimoto pearls will typically bring $1,000 and up for a nice strand.

7. Art Deco Gem-Set Devant de Corsage, Boucheron, Paris

Designed by Lucien Hirtz, this rare Art Deco gem set was sold at auction for $189,600 on Mar. 17 by Skinner Auctioneers & Appraisers in Boston. The original estimate was $50,000 to $75,000. "Jewelry really seems to have held its value at all different levels," says Skinner CEO Karen Keane. "We have not seen a fire-sale mentality yet."

8. Patek Philippe Perpetual Chronograph, Ref. 3970

The discontinued, but well-collected, model is often found at auctions and high-end secondary dealers. This watch in white gold sold for $108,000 at the last Antiquorum auction in New York City. "Prices have deflated in the watch world but less than you may think," says William Rohr, Antiquorum's managing director and chief operating officer. "We are 20% to 30% from the heights of last summer, and that is pretty good if you compare it to the S&P or most financial benchmarks."